Introduction to Leptospermum - 'Tea Trees'

Leptospermum is the ‘Tea Tree’ a largely Australasian family, better known perhaps in the cosmetic and fragrance industries but rather worthwhile as garden shrubs too. The evergreen foliage is sweetly aromatic of course, but the small rosette like flowers are borne in dense clusters in a display of rare beauty. Flowering in May and June [with some sporadic blooms thereafter] the flowers can cover the bush in exotic colour. These are upright, bushy growers that can, in favoured area’s, reach 6’ or more. They prefer a lime free soil and may also be grown in 24” containers. Frost hardy to an extent, but avoid cold or exposed situations and be prepared to give protection during severe winter spells. The most striking [& most popular] variety is 'Red Damask' which has shimmering dark ruby red black eyed flowers. Snowflurries in white, and Appleblossom in pale pink are other worthwhile varieties. These are all forms of Leptospermum scoparium; there are many other species in the family but few are particularly garden worthy. Pictured is 'Red Damask'

How to plant climbing Roses

TIPS ON PLANTING CLIMBING ROSES Now is an ideal time to plant climbing roses to beautify that wall, trellis or arbour. The billowing mass of a rambler in full flow is a sight to behold, or maybe your prefer the bolder classic outline of a large flowered rose in climbing form? Either way there can be few finer ways of clothing that wall or pillar. During the winter you will buy bare-root roses which establish easily and receive minimal check after planting; that’s why it is the traditional time to plant them. The climbers you will almost certainly get blooms from next summer, ramblers usually wait a season before blooming as they need to throw up long canes from the base which mature to flower the next year. After receiving your roses place them in a bucket of water for a few hours. Dige a hole approximately 18” away from the wall or support, and about 6” wider than the roots and deep enough to accommodate; throw a couple of handfulls of good compost and a dusting of growmore into the hole. Make sure the base of the hole is loose and friable; you don’t want to plant into a ‘pan’ which could impede progress of the roots as they grow. Place the rose so the graft point [clearly visible as the part where the new green stems join with the root] is just BELOW the soil surface. You can tilt the bush towards the wall or support so it is easier to tie it in as new growth appears next Spring. Make sure the roots are as fanned-out as possible, fill in with fresh soil and firm very well. Water thoroughly; this might seem odd given that the soil is probably already quite moist, but it serves to settle the soil around the roots and helps make sure there are no air pockets. Watering is especially important when planting next to a wall as the soil is often quite dry there if sheltered from prevailing rains. Next Spring you will need to water the new rose during dry spells until it is established fully – probably June. Beautiful blooms such as this depend on proper care and planting in the beginning.

Pruning Magnolia's - do's and dont's

Firstly let it be said that you should never actually prune a Magnolia tree unless it is essential or desirable to do so; it isn’t actually necessary to prune as a rule and they don’t particularly like it. However if your Magnolia is old, overgrown, or poorly shaped then it is perfectly possible to improve things with some judicious cutting. The best time to prune is really during the first half of the summer. Magnolia’s are slow to heal and this gives major cuts time to seal over before the frosts. Try to restrict pruning to weak elongated shoots, crossing limbs, damaged or broken branches. You can also prune congested specimens to open the framework. Take major limbs off completely level with their base; longer stems can be shortened by one third. Weakly shoots can also be removed completely at their base. Make sure to paint all larger cuts with arbrex. If your specimen needs a lot of work it is advisable to stage the pruning over two seasons allowing time for recovery between. Flowering will obviously be inhibited for 2 or 3 years afterward but after that you should see the benefits of your work as new growths mature to flowering age. A good mulch with organic matter or well rotted manure will help speed recovery. It should be remembered that Magnolia’s are shallow rooted trees and shrubs so make sure they do not suffer from water shortage after pruning – be prepared to irrigate if it is dry. Pictured is the classic Magnolia liliflora nigra, one of the deepest coloured Magnolias available.

Lavatera's - Tree Mallows

GROWING TREE MALLOWS [LAVATERA] If you have an empty border, or a big space you want to fill quickly with colour, then it's hard to beat these fantastic members of the Hollyhock. In just one season, these free growing shrubs will attain almost maturity, easily 6' or more and as much across. The softly furry leaves and stems are densely clustered with saucer like mallow flowers, from July right to the frosts. Hard to beat for sheer flower-power. For the best effect, observe a few preferences. Although generally easy to grow avoid heavy or poorly drained soils. They may thrive initially but will prove short-lived. Ordinary soil, or soils with good drainage will provide great results and needn't be too fertile. And a position in full sun is always enjoyed. Avoid windy sites because the branches can be brittle. I have also seen Lavatera grown against a sunny wall, to superb effect. If grown in the open border, allow about 8' for an established specimen. Pruning is generally unnecessary except to remove dead wood in early spring. You can also shorted some of the main leaders by about a third at this time, if you want to and this does promote more new growths that produce the flowers. VARIETIES A few new varieties have come onto the market recently but this family remains fairly short on choice. My top three would be: LAVATERA 'CANDY FLOSS' Generous in flower, the blooms are a clearer icing sugar pink than the original species, and larger. They have a lovely frilly outliner and the foliage is slightly more grey. LAVATERA MARITIMA Much less often seen than the rest of this family - and so worth seeking out! The pale lilac-white flowers have a stunning burgundy blotch - absolutely unmissable when in full flower. [pictured] LAVATERA OLBIA ROSEA This is the original species and the shrub most often seen in gardens. It never fails to produce a mass of flower in an old fashioned shade of madder-rose, deeper in bud. It's always a delight. LAVATERA BARNSLEY is popular because it’s pure white; but it is prone to reversion. LAVATERA RED RUM Is a nice more compact form with a deeper colour although not as hardy.

Welcome

Here's my exciting new blog devoted to shrubs, evergreens, climbers, clematis, conifers, small trees and any 'woody' plants. What excites me about this group so much? Well, in many ways as an increasingly dreary November descends into the gloom of winter, it's an ideal time to start - and therein lies the appeal for any gardener. What other sector of gardening could you say that about? Shrubs and their allies are never out of season. Even as I write, I am surrounded by startling coloured evergreen foliage, the last of the dying ember of falling leaves like flickering flames through the mist ...... the season is supposedly fading away but there are flower buds appearing all over - Viburnums, Skimmia, Lonicera, Prunus, Jasmine and Christmas Box will soon be bringing fragrance and cheer all over again. Every garden really should be reliant on shrubs. They bring structure, shelter, year round cover, shade, berry, fragrance and colour. They are valued almost equally by gardeners and the wildlife he wishes to encourage. There isn't a day goes by when a garden built around shrubs cannot provide colour and interest. And then there are the climbing plants that bring decorous twining elegance to our walls, pergolas, outbuildings, or perhaps climbing into trees bringing space saving vertical accent to even the smallest of gardens. Conifers - so long out of fashion are simply irreplaceable when it comes to providing sheer character, texture, shape and contrast to the garden. And what area could be complete without at least one small tree? Yes, it's the permanence and the generosity with which these treasures adorn our lives all year round that has brought me to devote my nursery to them. I now seek by way of this blog, to inspire, advise and encourage any readers who wish to join me on this trip - about how a love affair with 'the woodies' can change your garden and outlook forever. Just to start, here's a picture of startling brilliance - the brilliant orange scarlet of a Japanese Prunus against the clear blue of a late Autumn sky.