WINTER CARE OF NEWLY PLANTED EVERGREENS

Evergreens can differ slightly in their requirements and care compared to deciduous shrubs and trees, especially when newly planted. It’s certainly ok to plant evergreens through the winter months and such a planting programme will be at an advantage over spring planted specimens as some establishment will already be in progress. But there are some tips to heed to make sure your new evergreens transplant successfully. Try to avoid pruning during the first Winter; if necessary prune or trim in early Spring, or late Summer/Autumn. Because evergreens of course will keep most of their leaf overwinter, they are more liable to lose moisture unlike their deciduous counterparts. So make sure they are kept watered if there are any dry spells over winter. Applying a mulch will help in this respect, and also deter weed seedlings from appearing in Spring, and will also help insulate the rootstock from severe frosts. Wind protection is also important for the same reason. It can damage or scorch larger evergreen leaves and also aids dehydration. If you can erect a temporary screen of mesh around individual specimens, or maybe a make-shift mesh fence if you’ve just planted a hedge,. Then this will aid establishment a great deal. And if it is an open windy aspect make sure you counteract wind-rock with a good stake. Remember the roots won’t yet have anchored into the soil. Specimens in containers will also benefit from such protection and watering. Some evergreens which should really only be planted in Spring or Autumn include Leptospermum, Olearia, Cistus, Laurus noblilis and Laurus nobilis aurea, Freemontodendron, evergreen Azaleas and Grisselina. The Photo is of Eleagnus ebingei Gilt Edge, a good structural evergreen for the border, or as a hedge and useful too for floral arranging.

A great small-garden tree...

FEATURED VARIETY Sorbus koehneana ‘White Swan’ This is probably the smallest of the Sorbus family [reducta excepted] and it is therefore strange that it does not attract more attention. It is certainly an extremely elegant small bushy tree with finely cut leaves and drooping clusters of porcelain white fruits. First named by Ernest Wilson in 1910, Sorbus Koehneana was discovered in China. The form ‘White Swan’ is a very garden worthy selection with neat habit and a prolific berry producer each year. The leaves turn a wonderful plum purple in October and November. Hardy, suitable for most soils except the waterlogged. Ultimate dimensions probably no more than 6 x 4’. Will also do well in a large container using a good loam based compost.

MY TOP 10 BERRYING SHRUBS

Here’s my 10 winter sparklers with berries galore. What could be more appropriate to the time of year than this timely run down of the best 10 shrubs to give a welcome burst of festive bejewelled beauty to the garden. Berries in all shades for you, the birds, winter décor indoors and out…… 1] CALLICARPA BODINERI Utterly unique with it’s vibrant mass of shimmering lilac berries which are small but produced with such generosity they can almost cover the branches. Callicarpa is an easy to grow shrub derspite being quite seldom seen, it’s perfectly frost hardy and will thrive on all well drained soils excepting chalk. The oval rough textured leaves also turn nice Autumn shades before falling to reveal the tracery of branches and those stunning berries…. Ultimate height 6-7’ and the same spread. The one point to remember with this shrub – for the best berries plant a group of 3; I reckon it’s well worth it. There is a rare white berried form too. 2] ARBUTUS UNEDO COMPACTA The stunning ‘Strawberry Tree’ wins on year round effects. Here, I recommend it in the choice compact form which makes it even more ideal for smaller gardens. A slow grower, this selection may mature at just 6-8’ with a closer, well foliated habit. The dark glossy leaves are an excellent foil both for the pearl like bell flowers, appearing in Spring, and the vivid red/orange edible [if insipid] fruits which can hang on the tree for many months of the year. Older specimens develop a flaky, peeling trunk. Does best on an acid soil and also suitable for large tub planting, in sun or shade. A top class shrub or very small tree. 3] ILEX J.C.VAN TOL Hollies are the ultimate in berrying shrubs but it’s a minefield when it comes to chooisng male/female partners. Some females are males you know! J.C.Van Tol takes the guess work out of the equation for it is self fertile and doesn’t need another Holly to produce that festive mass of blood red berry, all set against polished shiny deepest green leaves. Hollies are adaptable and versatile. They will grow well in part shade or sun and are perfectly happy being trimmed so they can be accomodated in any garden. Perfect in the border, as a specimen, or a good big pot. 4] DECASINEA FARGESII Another one you maybe wouldn’t have thought of – or maybe haven’t even heard of. It’s the kind of shrub that, when folk do see it in all it’s glory, it surely turns heads. The fruiting pods [ok, not really berries but….] are a brilliant turquoise blue! Absolutely incredible. And if that were not enough, the lime green flowers that appear before are almost as boggling. Even the leaves are worth having, long, decorous and decidedly ash-like, they turn yellow gold in the Autumn. It isn’t even fussy. Coming from China, it’s tough and hardy and has no soil preferences. Why is this shrub not more often grown? Maybe it’s just too ‘out there’ to achieve mass consumption. Can reach 6-8’ when mature. 5] VACCINIUM VITIS IDAEA A demure and easy-to-find-a-home-for dwarf evergreen in the Cranberry family. And yes, the berries ARE edible and are made into juices and preserves in Northern Europe. But I think that’s a bit of a waste as they are so very lovely, scattered over the dense little bush like sparkling red jewels. The urn shaped pink flowers appear in May and are quite bee friendly. This shrub needs an acid/ericaceous soil but if you don’t have that it’s only small – maybe 12 x 18” and could easily be grown in a pot. If you have the soil it’s great amongst azaleas or rhodo’s, or maybe conifers and Heathers. 6] PYRACANTHA TETON Maybe an obvious choice, on the surface, but ‘Teton’ isn’t your usual big, rangey grower. It’s a handy bushy upright shrub that’s great grown in solitude in the border and is also quite disease resistant, making it always such a clean and satisfying looking bush. The orange-scarlet berries appear with predictable enthusiasm and last well into the second half of winter. 6 x6’ mature but may be trimmed. If you want Pyracantha’s for a wall then I recommend Orange Glow or Yellow Charmer. Pyracantha are quite tolerant of industrial/city pollution. 7] PERNETTYA Or Gaulnettya as they have recently been re-christened. Another acid soil lover but well worth making a fuss over, the sizeable marble-like berries are the ultimate in festive cheer and last and last. Pernettya [as I still inst on calling them] make small bushy vaguely prickly evergreen shrubs and just look BRILLIANT in pots,arranged maybe with their near-relative Gaultheria, Skimmia Rubella and/or winter Heathers. I love them; you need to plant 1 male Pernyetta mascula with up to 5 berrying females, which come in wondrous shades of sugar pink, shining lilac, pure white and ruby red. Mature size usually no more than 4’. 8] EUONYMUS EUROPAEUS RED CASCADE Fantastical is probably the most apt term for the showy cerise-red seed capsules that split to reveal day-glow orange seeds inside! All this combining with the dark ruby red Autumn foliage. A large, fast and freely growing shrub that suits the back of the border and is pretty easy and undemanding to grow. When in fruit the branches are great for indoor floral arrangements. Ultimate height 10’+. 9] SKIMMIA JAPONICA REEVESIANA The foliage is evergreen and pleasantly scented and the greenish white flower panicles too are sweetly fragrant in early spring. There are other berrying Skimmia’s that can put on quite a display, but all these need a female pollinating partner that can make things complicated. Skimmia reevesiana is a hermaphrodite and will bring it’s lasting festive cheer all on it’s own! Perfect foir a pot or the shady border. Dimensions 3 x 3’. 10] BERBERIS KOREANA RED TEARS A very seldom seen and choice Barberry that warrants mention. The fruits are more decorous than any other Berbeis because they appear in comparatively long racemes. They are teardrop shaped and a very brilliant red. The Autumn foliage finery can be considerably affecting too; difficult to find but well worth hunting out. Ultimate height 6-8’ and the same spread. Hardy, undemanding. Pictured is Vaccinium vitis-idaea.

HARDY-EXOTICS Illustrated

A selection of hardy or near-hardy shrubs and sub shrubs to add an exotic air to your garden or patio. Acnistus australis A beautiful Australian shrub for a wall or grows well in a container. Callistemon 'Hot Pink' A new variety of Australian Bottle Brush in an amazing colour. Actually seems slightly hardier than the more familiar red flowered species and varieties. Callistemon citrinus As might be guessed, the foliage is delightfully aromatic too. Flowering period May-July. Tetrapanax papyrifera The leaves are probably the largest of any shrub hardy in GB. Requires a sheltered position from wind to prevent damage, but is actually fairly hardy and will shoot again from the base if frost damaged. A wondrous thing for a sheltered patio and will take to life in a container. Romneya Coulteri Known as the Californian Tree Poppy, thrives in a sun baked border with these giant paper white poppy-flowers in mid summer. A prized rarity, the foliage is indented and greyish. Embothrium coccineum Chilean Flame Bush, a demanding shrub for a shletered locale and moist lime free soil. Evergreen, the unique floral inflorescence will have you rushing for the camera. Capable of 10' or more when happy. Aciphylla There are only a few species in these weird-n-wonderful evergreen clump forming shrubs. Does not flower whilst young but the textural spiky, bayonet-like leaves are the best feature. For dryish full sun. Oplopanax horridus Terribly spiny but the large palmate leaves and brilliant red autumn fruits make this a rarity with real presence and easy to grow in sun or part shade. Hardy! Cordyline australis Many colour variations have been raised of this 'hardy Palm' which is actually in the Lily family. The evergreen fountain like foliage rosettes are great for larger container features or the centre of an island bed.

Winter Proofing tender shrubs and climbers

Like many of us you no doubt covet the more exotic species and certainly many of the less hardy shrubs and climbers are relatively easy to care for on a sunny patio. Just because they are less frost hardy doesn’t make them more difficult as a rule. However, now we come to the sticky part. As the temperatures get colder and the threat or more severe frost or snow increases week on week, provision should be made to protect these treasures over the coming months. Just some of the species which might be affected include: Agave, Aciphylla, Acacia, large-leaved Hebes, Carpenteria, Sollya, Dodonea, shrubby Salvias, Piptanthus, Feijoa, Mandevilla, Oleander, Datura, Tea-Tree, and Freemontodendron. Assuming you have a cool greenhouse or conservatory now is the time to bring them in. At the same time, look them over; if there is any diseased or dying growth then remove it now. If there is evidence of disease or bugs then it should really be kept isolated, the problem rectified, or, as a last resort, leave the infected plant outside! You don’t want the problem to spread to other plants. Now is NOT the time to re-pot. To re-pot now will mean the roots will ‘sit’ in cold, wet compost until next Spring and the mean temperature at root-level will be lower. The roots won’t be active or grow now until the Spring so even if a plant appears pot-bound, leave it be. Similarly there is no need to feed now as the plants won’t have any nutrient requirements until growth re-starts next year. To protect against very severe frost [last year we have consecutive nights of minus 14 degrees here in Norfolk] which might even do damage in the confines of a greenhouse, wrap the pots in -newspaper or even better, horticultural thermal fleece. The latter is comparatively expensive to buy, but it can be re-used for many years if looked after. During mild spells and the middle part of the day if it is very sunny to remember to ventilate by opening one or two windows or the door. It is important to maintain good air circulation to prevent moulds and diseases. Lastly do not overwater your prize specimens. Most will be happier on the dry side and this will again prevent frost damage over winter. Water only if dry or foliage starts to become limp. When to move them out? This is a tricky one and will depend on weather conditions at the time. Ideally move them out before active soft growth starts but keep an eye on the weather and make sure they aren't caught out by any heavy late frosts of snow. If you make the mistake and leave them indoors too long and new growth starts, then you must wait until all fear of frost has passes in May before moving the plants out, because this new growth will quickly blacken if frosted because it will be ‘soft’ and not hardened. Now you can re-pot and feed your plants and start watering liberally again, as your prize specimens grow ever bigger and more effective, await your exotic display once again in the Summer even better than the year before. Plants in the ground If you have any slightly tender or 'iffy' plants that are growing in the ground that can't easily be moved indoors, then you can still give added protection with bubble warp, horticultural fleece, or even straw spread thickly around the base of the plant will help. Don't use any polythene sheeting or plastic products to protect your plants, plastic and polythene is a terrible insulator and may actually make things worse. Don't be tempted to cut back any growth as this will give added protection. Save any pruning or trimming until next Spring. These tips can equally apply to hardy fuschias, caryopteris and Cistus which may normally prove hardy but can be susceptible during extreme winters. It's better to be prepared as they say. Pictured are the exotic chalice shaped blooms of Freemontodendron californicum. Although generally hardy on a sunny south or west wall it will need protection elsewhere, especially younger plants.

INTRODUCTION TO…… CRYPTOMERIA’S

A famous group of conifers in it’s native Japan, where they have been cultivated for centuries, but curiously undervalued here. Cryptomeria add texture, colour and wide ranging form year round to the garden and are must-have constituents of any conifer collection or winter garden. Entirely hardy everywhere, cold winters actually bring out the intensity of the burnished bronze, orange or red colouring even more. This characteristic can be present on most cultivars excepting the gold japonica aure. MANY DIFFERENT HABITS From the original Cryptomeria japonica, which easily attains the stature of a tree, to the tiny rounded japonica globosum, upright wsited and columnar japonica Rasen, upright willowy spreading sekkan-sugi, to the very tiny almost alpine vilmoriniana, there is endless choice and endless variation; something for everyone and every garden. The foliage is quite curious when examined closely; the congested arrangement of short needles gives an appearance that is unmistakeably spiky [although not particularly to touch] and moss-like. Real tactile texture! In larger growg forms it tends to be more open and elegant. Cryptomeria are suitable for most soils except the poorly drained and are suitable for all counties, even the coldest. Larger growing varieties, and the ‘original’ species Cryptomeria japonica, can be used as trees for specimen planting in lawn or island bed. Intermediate growers make good mid-border specimens or to grow up through a carpet of heathers. And there are plenty of truly dwarf to miniature varieties for pots, pans, rockery, scree and raised bed. Because the foliage colours so strongly in the winter there are endless possibilities for foliage contrast with heathers, other conifers, sedum, sempervivum and many others.

Introduction to Leptospermum - 'Tea Trees'

Leptospermum is the ‘Tea Tree’ a largely Australasian family, better known perhaps in the cosmetic and fragrance industries but rather worthwhile as garden shrubs too. The evergreen foliage is sweetly aromatic of course, but the small rosette like flowers are borne in dense clusters in a display of rare beauty. Flowering in May and June [with some sporadic blooms thereafter] the flowers can cover the bush in exotic colour. These are upright, bushy growers that can, in favoured area’s, reach 6’ or more. They prefer a lime free soil and may also be grown in 24” containers. Frost hardy to an extent, but avoid cold or exposed situations and be prepared to give protection during severe winter spells. The most striking [& most popular] variety is 'Red Damask' which has shimmering dark ruby red black eyed flowers. Snowflurries in white, and Appleblossom in pale pink are other worthwhile varieties. These are all forms of Leptospermum scoparium; there are many other species in the family but few are particularly garden worthy. Pictured is 'Red Damask'

How to plant climbing Roses

TIPS ON PLANTING CLIMBING ROSES Now is an ideal time to plant climbing roses to beautify that wall, trellis or arbour. The billowing mass of a rambler in full flow is a sight to behold, or maybe your prefer the bolder classic outline of a large flowered rose in climbing form? Either way there can be few finer ways of clothing that wall or pillar. During the winter you will buy bare-root roses which establish easily and receive minimal check after planting; that’s why it is the traditional time to plant them. The climbers you will almost certainly get blooms from next summer, ramblers usually wait a season before blooming as they need to throw up long canes from the base which mature to flower the next year. After receiving your roses place them in a bucket of water for a few hours. Dige a hole approximately 18” away from the wall or support, and about 6” wider than the roots and deep enough to accommodate; throw a couple of handfulls of good compost and a dusting of growmore into the hole. Make sure the base of the hole is loose and friable; you don’t want to plant into a ‘pan’ which could impede progress of the roots as they grow. Place the rose so the graft point [clearly visible as the part where the new green stems join with the root] is just BELOW the soil surface. You can tilt the bush towards the wall or support so it is easier to tie it in as new growth appears next Spring. Make sure the roots are as fanned-out as possible, fill in with fresh soil and firm very well. Water thoroughly; this might seem odd given that the soil is probably already quite moist, but it serves to settle the soil around the roots and helps make sure there are no air pockets. Watering is especially important when planting next to a wall as the soil is often quite dry there if sheltered from prevailing rains. Next Spring you will need to water the new rose during dry spells until it is established fully – probably June. Beautiful blooms such as this depend on proper care and planting in the beginning.

Pruning Magnolia's - do's and dont's

Firstly let it be said that you should never actually prune a Magnolia tree unless it is essential or desirable to do so; it isn’t actually necessary to prune as a rule and they don’t particularly like it. However if your Magnolia is old, overgrown, or poorly shaped then it is perfectly possible to improve things with some judicious cutting. The best time to prune is really during the first half of the summer. Magnolia’s are slow to heal and this gives major cuts time to seal over before the frosts. Try to restrict pruning to weak elongated shoots, crossing limbs, damaged or broken branches. You can also prune congested specimens to open the framework. Take major limbs off completely level with their base; longer stems can be shortened by one third. Weakly shoots can also be removed completely at their base. Make sure to paint all larger cuts with arbrex. If your specimen needs a lot of work it is advisable to stage the pruning over two seasons allowing time for recovery between. Flowering will obviously be inhibited for 2 or 3 years afterward but after that you should see the benefits of your work as new growths mature to flowering age. A good mulch with organic matter or well rotted manure will help speed recovery. It should be remembered that Magnolia’s are shallow rooted trees and shrubs so make sure they do not suffer from water shortage after pruning – be prepared to irrigate if it is dry. Pictured is the classic Magnolia liliflora nigra, one of the deepest coloured Magnolias available.

Lavatera's - Tree Mallows

GROWING TREE MALLOWS [LAVATERA] If you have an empty border, or a big space you want to fill quickly with colour, then it's hard to beat these fantastic members of the Hollyhock. In just one season, these free growing shrubs will attain almost maturity, easily 6' or more and as much across. The softly furry leaves and stems are densely clustered with saucer like mallow flowers, from July right to the frosts. Hard to beat for sheer flower-power. For the best effect, observe a few preferences. Although generally easy to grow avoid heavy or poorly drained soils. They may thrive initially but will prove short-lived. Ordinary soil, or soils with good drainage will provide great results and needn't be too fertile. And a position in full sun is always enjoyed. Avoid windy sites because the branches can be brittle. I have also seen Lavatera grown against a sunny wall, to superb effect. If grown in the open border, allow about 8' for an established specimen. Pruning is generally unnecessary except to remove dead wood in early spring. You can also shorted some of the main leaders by about a third at this time, if you want to and this does promote more new growths that produce the flowers. VARIETIES A few new varieties have come onto the market recently but this family remains fairly short on choice. My top three would be: LAVATERA 'CANDY FLOSS' Generous in flower, the blooms are a clearer icing sugar pink than the original species, and larger. They have a lovely frilly outliner and the foliage is slightly more grey. LAVATERA MARITIMA Much less often seen than the rest of this family - and so worth seeking out! The pale lilac-white flowers have a stunning burgundy blotch - absolutely unmissable when in full flower. [pictured] LAVATERA OLBIA ROSEA This is the original species and the shrub most often seen in gardens. It never fails to produce a mass of flower in an old fashioned shade of madder-rose, deeper in bud. It's always a delight. LAVATERA BARNSLEY is popular because it’s pure white; but it is prone to reversion. LAVATERA RED RUM Is a nice more compact form with a deeper colour although not as hardy.

Welcome

Here's my exciting new blog devoted to shrubs, evergreens, climbers, clematis, conifers, small trees and any 'woody' plants. What excites me about this group so much? Well, in many ways as an increasingly dreary November descends into the gloom of winter, it's an ideal time to start - and therein lies the appeal for any gardener. What other sector of gardening could you say that about? Shrubs and their allies are never out of season. Even as I write, I am surrounded by startling coloured evergreen foliage, the last of the dying ember of falling leaves like flickering flames through the mist ...... the season is supposedly fading away but there are flower buds appearing all over - Viburnums, Skimmia, Lonicera, Prunus, Jasmine and Christmas Box will soon be bringing fragrance and cheer all over again. Every garden really should be reliant on shrubs. They bring structure, shelter, year round cover, shade, berry, fragrance and colour. They are valued almost equally by gardeners and the wildlife he wishes to encourage. There isn't a day goes by when a garden built around shrubs cannot provide colour and interest. And then there are the climbing plants that bring decorous twining elegance to our walls, pergolas, outbuildings, or perhaps climbing into trees bringing space saving vertical accent to even the smallest of gardens. Conifers - so long out of fashion are simply irreplaceable when it comes to providing sheer character, texture, shape and contrast to the garden. And what area could be complete without at least one small tree? Yes, it's the permanence and the generosity with which these treasures adorn our lives all year round that has brought me to devote my nursery to them. I now seek by way of this blog, to inspire, advise and encourage any readers who wish to join me on this trip - about how a love affair with 'the woodies' can change your garden and outlook forever. Just to start, here's a picture of startling brilliance - the brilliant orange scarlet of a Japanese Prunus against the clear blue of a late Autumn sky.